Process of fabrication
The fruit is picked and pressed into a juice that is fermented into a dry cider. It is then distilled into eau de vie. After two years aged in oak casks, it can be sold as Calvados. The longer it is aged, the smoother the drink becomes. Usually the maturation goes on for several years. A half-bottle of twenty-year-old Calvados can easily command the same price as a normal-sized bottle of ten-year-old Calvados.
Double and single distillation
The appellation of AOC calvados authorizes double distillation for all calvados but it is required for the AOC calvados Pays d’Auge.
- Double distillation is carried out in traditional alembic pot-still ‘l'alambic à repasse’ or ‘charentais’. Gives complex, delicate and rich fruity aromas with potential for longer aging.
- Single continuous distillation in a column still. Gives a fresh and clean apple flavour but less complex flavour to evolve with longer aging.
Producing regions and legal definitions
Like most French wines, Calvados is governed by appellation contrôlée regulations. There are three appelations for calvados:
- The AOC calvados area includes all of the Calvados, Manche, and Orne départements and parts of Eure, Mayenne, Sarthe, and Eure-et-Loir.
- AOC calvados makes up for over 70 percent of the total production.
- Minimum of two years ageing in oak barrels.
- The terroir, geographical area, is defined.
- The apples and pears are defined cider varieties.
- The procedures in production like pressing, fermentation, distillation and ageing is regulated.
- Usually single column distillation.
- The more restrictive AOC calvados Pays d'Auge area is limited to the east end of the département of Calvados and a few adjoining districts.
- Extensive quality control - the basic rules for AOC calvados together with several additional requirements.
- Ageing for minimum of two years in oak barrels.
- Double distillation in an alembic pot-still.
- Produced within the designated area in Pays d'Auge.
- A minimum of six weeks fermentation of the cider.
- Flavour elements are controlled.
- AOC calvados Domfrontais reflects the long tradition of pear orchards in the area, resulting in a unique fruity calvados. The regulation is similar to the AOC calvados and the column still is used.
- A minimum of 30 percent pears from the designated areas is used.
- A three-year minimum of ageing in oak barrels.
- The orchards must consist of at least 15 percent of pear trees (25 percent from the sixteenth harvest).
- Fermier ‘farm-made’ calvados - some quality minded producers both inside and outside the Pays d’Auge make ‘calvados fermier’, which indicates that the calvados is entirely made on the farm in a traditional agricultural way according to high quality demands.
Grades include
The age is mentioned with a certain choice of words and refers to the youngest part of the blend. Some choose to indicate the minimum age in years instead. A blend often contains parts of older calvados. Among higher quality calvados the oldest part of the blend is sometimes much older than mentioned below.
- ‘Fine’, ‘Trois étoiles *** ‘Trois pommes’ - 2 years old.
- ‘Vieux’ - ‘Réserve’ - 3 years old.
- ‘V.O.’ ‘VO’, ‘Vieille Réserve’, ‘V.S.O.P.’ ‘VSOP’ - 4 years old. Often sold older.
- ‘Extra’, ‘X.O.’ ‘XO’, ‘Napoléon’, ‘Hors d’Age’ ‘Age Inconnu’ - 6 years old. Often sold much older.
- ‘1973’ (millesime) - The vintage year (the year of distillation).
Tasting
Calvados is the basis of the tradition of le trou Normand, or "the Norman hole". This is a small drink of Calvados taken between courses in a very long meal, sometimes with apple sorbet, supposed to re-awaken the appetite. Calvados can be served as aperitif, blended in drinks, between meals, as digestive or with coffee. Well-made calvados should naturally be reminiscent of apples and pears, balanced with flavours of ageing. You will notice that the less aged calvados distinguishes itself with its fresh apple and pear aromas. The longer the calvados is under the influence of oak, the more the taste resembles that of any other aged brandy. Older calvados get the colour of gold, darker brown with orange elements and red mahogany. The nose and palate is delicate with concentration of aged apples and dried apricots balanced with butterscotch, nut and chocolate aromas.
Producers
- Père Magloire
- Christian Drouin Coeur de Lion
- Comte Louis de Lauriston
- Lecompte
- Manoir d'Apreval
- Calvados Pierre Huet
- Charles de Granville
- Calvados Roger Groult
- Chateau du Breuil
- Coquerel
- Boulard
- Dupont
- Ferme du Ponctey
Calvados in popular culture
In the 1963 novel On Her Majesty's Secret Service by Ian Fleming, James Bond drinks a glass of ten-year-old Calvados.
Calvados is the main characters' favourite drink in Erich Maria Remarque's novel Arch of Triumph.
Calvados is often referred to in the writings of mystic George Gurdjieff.
Cornelius Bear is known to have a stash of several well-aged bottles of calvados in the webcomic Achewood.
Inspector Maigret often stops in to a cafe for a glass of Calvados in Georges Simenon's novels and short stories.
On the album Us Against the Crown by State Radio, there is a song called "Calvados Chopper." It speaks of a man who is driving a motorcycle while "hopped up on Calvados."
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