debut in a cookbook of 1841, according to the Oxford English Dictionary. Mayonnaise is generally said to have been created by the chef of Louis François Armand du Plessis, duc de Richelieu in 1756, to celebrate the French military victory over the British at the port of Mahon (the capital of Minorca in the Balearic Islands, Spain). The French spelling for this Spanish port is "Mahón", and thus "sauce from Mahon" is "sauce mahónnaise", from which it was said the word "mayonnaise" was derived. This often-repeated story seems flawed, however, for reasons given below.
In another attempt, Antoine Carême speculated in 1833 that the name was derived from the French word manier, meaning "handle, feel, ply", thus possibly in this case "stir or blend". The Larousse Gastronomique 1961 reports, "However logical Careme's justification for the exclusive use of the term magnonaise may seem, we are not by any means convinced that it should take the place of the usual form, mayonnaise. Mayonnaise in our view, is a popular corruption of moyeunaise, derived from the very old French word moyeu, which means yolk of egg. For, when all is said, this sauce is nothing but an emulsion of egg yolks and oil."
Carême appears to have been straining to come up with an etymology for sauce Mayonnaise. It is inconceivable that Carême – trained by the greatest pâtissier in Napoleonic Paris, creator of French haute cuisine, and chef d'hotel to the duc de Talleyrand – would not know the history of the name, had mayonnaise actually been created as recently as 1756. Indeed, Talleyrand himself grew up under the Ancien regime (he had already held a bishopric), was a fastidious connoisseur of the table and moved in much the same circles as the Richelieu family, at the top of Parisian society, the very small world of tout Paris. Is stands to reason that the origin of "mayonnaise" must be much older than 1756, if it was obscure to Carême.
In fact it may appear more credible that sauce Mayennaise was originally named for Charles of Lorraine, Duke of Mayenne (in northwest France), who presided over the meeting of the Estates General in January 1593 that had been summoned for the purpose of choosing a Catholic ruler for France. The sauce may have remained unnamed until after the Battle of Arques in 1589. It may then have been christened "Mayennaise" after Charles de Lorraine, duc de Mayenne, because he took the time to finish his meal of chicken with cold sauce before being defeated in battle by Henri IV. The suggestion about the duc de Mayenne as the patron of sauce Mayonnaise was first made by the nineteenth-century culinary writer Pierre Lacam.
Another proposed etymology points to the French city of Bayonne; "mayonnaise" would be a corruption of bayonnaise.
Making mayonnaise
Mayonnaise is made by slowly adding oil to an egg yolk, mustard, vinegar, and salt. The mustard helps to keep the emulsion stable while whisking vigorously to disperse the oil into the liquid. Egg yolk contains lecithin, which acts as the emulsifier. All ingredients are added at the beginning of the process to prevent speckles. Adding the salt after emulsification can cause white speckles.
These steps produce the basic mayonnaise. Mayonnaise can be made with an electric mixer, an electric blender, or a food processor, or by hand with a whisk or even a fork. Using a whisk or fork, however, involves fairly tedious physical effort. Blenders and food processors are by far the quickest means of making mayonnaise; some people, however, feel that the end result is inferior to a hand-whisked product.
Adding a bit of mustard will stabilize the emulsion. This is because the small particles it contains serve as nucleation sites for the droplets forming the mayonnaise.
Traditional recipe
The traditional French recipe is essentially the same as the basic one described above, but it uses top-quality olive oil and vinegar. Some nouvelle cuisine recipes specify safflower oil. It is considered essential to constantly beat the mayonnaise using a whisk while adding the olive oil a drop at a time, fully incorporating the oil before adding the next tablespoon. Experienced cooks can judge when the mayonnaise is done by the emulsion's resistance to the beating action. Mayonnaise made this way may taste too strong or sharp to people accustomed to commercial products: in such a case it can be made blander by blending in some non-fat yogurt.
Composition
Homemade mayonnaise can approach 85% fat before the emulsion breaks down; commercial mayonnaises are more typically 70-80% fat. "Low fat" mayonnaise products contain starches, cellulose gel, or other ingredients to simulate the texture of real mayonnaise.
Commercial producers either pasteurize the yolks, freeze them and substitute water for most of their liquid, or use other emulsifiers. For homemade mayonnaise it is recommended using the freshest eggs possible. Some stores sell pasteurized eggs for home use. The eggs can also be coddled in 170°F (77°C) water, after which the hot yolks, now slightly cooked, are removed from the whites. Homemade mayonnaise will generally only keep under refrigeration for three to four days. A lower-fat version can be made with silken tofu.
Homemade mayonnaise can also be made using raw egg whites, with no yolks at all, if it is done at high speed in a food processor. The resulting texture appears to be the same, and – if seasoned, for example, with salt, pepper, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, and a little paprika – the taste is similar to traditional mayonnaise made with egg yolks.
Use of Mayonnaise
Worldwide, mayonnaise is most commonly served in a sandwich or a burger, or with salad such as potato salad or canned tuna ("tuna mayo" / tuna salad). Regional uses are listed here.
In the US |